The Lauren Bacall collection

American actress Lauren Bacall.

NEW-YORK - On March 31st and April 1st, Bonhams New York will auction The Lauren Bacall Collection, an extensive sale comprising the actress’s jewelry, faience, majolica, provincial furniture, tribal works of art, prints and paintings. Over 740 lots tell the story of Bacall’s personal life and studied carefulness in collecting, items that once adorned her Los Angeles home she shared with Bogart; her former country home in Amagansett, New York; and her final residence in New York’s iconic The Dakota in the Upper West Side.

Among the highlights of the sale are artworks by Pablo Picasso, Joan Miro and Alexander Calder as well as sculptures by Henry Moore. A selection of Bacall’s jewelry will also hit the auction block, including pieces by Jean Schlumberger. According to a Harper’s Bazaar article, Bacall’s daughter Leslie Bogart shares her mother’s love of pearls, particularly from Tahiti and the South Seas, as well as the personal friendships she formed with private jewelers, like Amy Moss and Darlene de Sedle. The auction includes a strand of South Sea cultured pearls and a number of pieces by the two private jewelers as well as New York-based jeweler Elizabeth Gage.

An enamel and 18K gold bracelet, Jean Schlumberger, French. Estimate US$ 20,000 - 30,000 (€19,000 - 28,000). Photo: Bonhams.

Designed as a series of blue pailloné enamel panels, detailed with polished gold bars, leaves and cones; signed Schlumberger, Paris, with French assay mark and signed pouch; gross weight approximately 123.7 grams; diameter 2 1/8in (5.4cm); (with some enamel loss)

An amethyst, turquoise and diamond ring, Jean Schlumberger, French. Estimate US$ 8,000 - 12,000 (€7,400 - 11,000). Photo: Bonhams.

Centering an oval-cut amethyst measuring approximately 14.75 x 13.90 x 10.00mm, within a pavé-set foliate surround, extending turquoise beads, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds; signed Schlumberger, with French assay marks, maker's mark and signed box.
amethyst weighs approximately 11 carats; estimated total diamond weight 1.55 carats; mounted in 18k gold and platinum; size 7 1/4

Accompanied by an Insurance Retail Replacement Valuation, dated July 9, 1996.

Notes: I try to make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, organic... I want to capture the irregularity of the universe. - Jean Schlumberger (as quoted in Bejeweled 1837-1987, Tiffany & Co., 1987, p. 274, (the Tiffany & Co. promotional biography of Jean Schlumberger). 

Over the years, Lauren Bacall came to know Jean Schlumberger. She shared an appreciation for his ingenuity and unique designs, acquiring several pieces from him in Paris. Bacall's selection of Schlumberger jewelry includes pieces that present unusual color combinations, nautical and marine motifs, and brilliant enamel. These basic elements characterize the bejeweled creations of her friend and admirer, French-born Jean Schlumberger. Each is artfully designed and beautifully crafted. In particular, Lauren Bacall favored her Schlumberger rope twist bracelets, lots 735 and 736, which she wore together in real life as well as on screen.

A pair of gem set and 18K gold ear clips, montures Schlumberger, French. Estimate US$ 7,000 - 9,000 (€6,500 - 8,400). Photo: Bonhams.

Each designed as a gold lattice work plaque, suspending articulated square-cut emeralds, sapphires and amethysts; signed Montures Schlumberger, with French assay mark and signed pouch; length 1 1/8in (2.86cm)

Notes: Lauren Bacall wore these earrings when she accepted her award for Best Supporting Actress for her role in The Mirror Has Two Faces.

An 18K gold bracelet. Jean Schlumberger, French. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,600 - 6,500). Photo: Bonhams.

Designed as a series of textured and rope work links; signed Schlumberger, Paris, with French assay marks; gross weight approximately 94.2 grams; length 7in (17.8cm)

An 18K yellow gold and diamond bracelet, Schlumberger, French. Estimate US$ 6,000 - 9,000 (€5,600 - 8,400). Photo: Bonhams.

Designed as a series of textured and ropework links, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds; signed Schlumberger, Paris, with French assay mark and signed box - estimated total diamond weight 1.10 carats; gross weight approximately 75.9 grams; length 6 3/4in (17cm)

A 22K gold and diamond pendant necklace, Darlene de Sedle. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,600 - 6,500). Photo: Bonhams.

The rice nugget gold chain suspending a detachable bezel-set rose-cut diamond pendant; with maker's mark for Darlene de Sedle; gross weight approximately 76.9 grams; chain length 17in (43cm); pendant length 1 3/4in (4.5cm)

A jadeite jade and 22K yellow gold ring, Darlene de Sedle. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,600 - 6,500). Photo: Bonhams.

Horizontally set with an oval jadeite jade cabochon, measuring approximately 15.30 x 12.00 x 3.45mm, within a textured and engraved mount; with maker's mark for Darlene de Sedle; size 5 1/4

Notes: Over the many years that I saw Betty, as her friends called her, I loved visiting her. The first time we met I was flustered as I a saw my childhood icon coming up the stairs to my Santa Monica apartment. She immediately put me at ease when we sat down at my dining room table and began looking through my jewels. -Darlene de Sedle 

Darlene de Sedle Vare's jewelry draws inspiration from her childhood. Growing up in New York, she was exposed to antiquities through her family business. Her jewelry reflects this strong influence and is expressed in high karat yellow gold designs and cabochon gemstones where she re-interprets ancient themes in her contemporary works. In fact, de Selde Vare's maker's mark is the Winged Sun, most often associated with the ancient Egyptian symbol for divinity, royalty and power.

Bacall and De Sedle had a common history of growing up in New York and living in California. Both exhibited interest in ancient cultures and were attracted to color. They shared a connection of understated tactile jewelry set with smooth rounded colorful cabochons and rose-cut diamonds, as opposed to flashy jewelry. Bacall preferred to wear multiple rings and stacked bracelets as a statement.

An enamel, cultured pearl and diamond brooch, Elizabeth Gage, 1990. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,600 - 6,500). Photo: Bonhams.

Designed as a yellow, red, green and blue guilloché enamel camel, enhanced by rose-cut diamonds, perched on a mogul-inspired cloisonné plaque of oval outline, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds, extending a baroque cultured pearl measuring approximately 11.90mm; signed Gage, plaque #12501 (indistinct); with maker's mark and signed box; mounted in 18k gold and pitch; gross weight approximately 69.1 grams; length 3in (7.6cm); (loss to enamel)

Accompanied by the original sketch and Elizabeth Gage correspondence, dated March 13, 1990.

Notes: [Lauren Bacall] was a strong woman and she knew her own truth. She was so easy to work with and we shared our inspirations. It was enormous fun designing for her. I shall miss her because as a woman, she was unique. - Elizabeth Gage

In 1968, award-winning goldsmith Elizabeth Gage received her first major commission from the esteemed house of Cartier. For more than fifty years, Gage has been providing jewelry to her international clientele from her studio in London. Gage is recognized for her attention to detail, and her imaginative use of color and gemstones. She continues to create textures on her works of art with granulation, wirework, satin, hammered and repoussé finishes, and highly engraved enamel work. Gage is a Freeman of the City of London and a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths.

Lauren Bacall purchased her first piece from Elizabeth Gage in 1985. Over the next two decades, their relationship flourished. In 1990, Bacall commissioned Gage to create Lot 734, the Mogul inspired camel brooch, which became one of Bacall's favorite pieces. The inception of the brooch was initiated by Bacall when she presented Gage with the camel and asked for it to be incorporated into a jewel. Drawing from her love of gardens, history and architecture, Gage created this unique brooch set with a jeweled camel standing on a colorful and elaborate foliate enamel pedestal enhanced with diamonds and pearl.

A rubellite and 22K gold ring, Amy Moss. Estimate US$ 2,000 - 3,000 (€1,900 - 2,800). Photo: Bonhams.

Centering a triangular-cut pink rubellite clover; unsigned; gross weight approximately 38.6 grams; size 7 1/2

A gray South Sea cultured pearl and 22K gold ring, Amy Moss. Estimate US$ 1,000 - 1,500 (€930 - 1,400). Photo: Bonhams.

Set with a gray South Sea cultured pearl, measuring approximately 13.45mm; unsigned; size 6 1/2 (cultured pearl untested for origin of color)

A peridot and 22K gold ring, Amy Moss. Estimate US$ 1,000 - 1,500 (€930 - 1,400). Photo: Bonhams.

Bezel set with an oval-cut peridot, measuring approximately 12.65 x 10.50mm; unsigned; size 8 1/4

A 14K yellow gold long chain, Tiffany & Co. Estimate US$ 12,000 - 15,000 (€11,000 - 14,000). Photo: Bonhams.

The fine link chain suspending heart-shaped pendants, each inscribed with a letter, spelling out To my own beautiful star from her proud director Ron; signed Tiffany & Co., with Tiffany pouch; gross weight approximately 88.8 grams; length 71in (180.3cm)

Notes: It is believed this necklace was a gift to Lauren Bacall from her director Ron Field, for her starring role in Applause. In 1970, Lauren Bacall won the Tony Award for Best Performance by a Leading Actress in a Musical, and the show won Best Musical. That same year Ron Field won Tony Awards for Best Direction of a Musical and Best Choreography.

A pair of diamond and platinum pendant earrings, Tiffany & Co., Elsa Peretti, 2004. Estimate US$ 12,000 - 15,000 (€11,000 - 14,000). Photo: Bonhams.

Each suspending a bezel-set round brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 1.03 carats; signed Tiffany & Co, Elsa Peretti, no. 17920987; length 1in (2.5cm)

Accompanied by a Tiffany & Co. Retail Replacement Valuation, dated September 28, 2004.

A pair of gray South Sea cultured pearl and diamond ear pendants, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., 1996. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,600 - 6,500). Photo: Bonhams.

Each suspending a gray South Sea cultured pearl measuring approximately 12.75 and 12.90mm, from a bar surmount, enhanced by a circular-cut diamond collet; signed Tiffany & Co., Elsa Peretti; mounted in platinum; length 1 1/2in (3.8cm); (pearls untested for origin of color)

Accompanied by a Tiffany & Company receipt dated June 6, 1996.

Notes: Elsa Peretti: "...the idea for the best-selling item of my collection sprang from a void in a Moore sculpture, a big one. No one else saw a heart there. Just Me. The shape was there in the metal." 

Elsa Peretti (as quoted in Bejeweled 1837-1987, Tiffany & Co., 1987, p. 293.

The clean, fluid, organic lines that define the sensuous jewelry and objects that Italian designer and craftswoman Elsa Peretti creates coincide with the space and form in the sculpture of Henry Moore. Lot 722, the lacquered open-heart pendant necklace by Peretti for Tiffany & Company, was an example of Moore's influence on Peretti. Lauren Bacall appreciated Peretti's artistic sensibility; both trailblazers, ahead of their time, they embodied the free spirited and no-nonsense modern woman.

A lacquer "open heart" pendant with gold chain, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Estimate US$ 800 - 1,200 (€740 - 1,100). Photo: Bonhams.

Suspending heart of black lacquer over wood, from a fine link and gold bead chain; signed Peretti; Tiffany & Co; pendant length 1 7/8in (4.75cm); chain length 30in (76cm)

A South Sea cultured pearl and diamond necklace. Estimate US$ 4,000 - 6,000 (€3,700 - 5,600). Photo: Bonhams.

Comprising thirty-five round white cultured pearls measuring approximately 14.90 to 10.85mm, completed by a pavé-set diamond ball clasp; estimated total diamond weight 2.00 carats; clasp mounted in 18k gold; length 19 1/2in (49.5cm)

A pair of patinated steel, diamond and cultured pearl earrings, Marsh. Estimate US$ 2,000 - 3,000 (€1,900 - 2,800). Photo: Bonhams.

Each designed as a scroll, enhanced by a circular-cut diamond floral motif, suspending a cultured pearl measuring approximately 8.45mm, diamonds mounted in platinum; unsigned, attributed to Marsh, with signed box; length 1 1/4in (3.2cm)

 Bonhams. THE LAUREN BACALL COLLECTION, 31 Mar 2015 10:00 EDT